From the weight, purity, and silver price, compute the pure silver weight and the melt value of a silver item.
Input Data
Results
At a glance:The melt value is the pure silver weight (total weight times purity) multiplied by the fine-silver spot price.
Formula
pureWeight = weight × purity%
meltValue = pureWeight × pricePerUnit
$$W_{pure} = W_{total} \times \dfrac{fineness\%}{100}$$$$Melt = W_{pure} \times Price_{per\,unit}$$How to Use
- Enter the total weight and purity.
- Enter the fine-silver price per unit.
- Review the pure weight and melt value.
FAQ
What is 925 silver, and how do I convert fineness to purity?
925 silver (Sterling Silver) is an alloy of 92.5% pure silver and 7.5% other metal (usually copper), the common standard for jewellery. Fineness is given in parts per thousand: .999 = 99.9% fine silver, .925 or Sterling = 92.5%, .800 = 80%. Divide the three-digit number by 10 to get the percentage purity.
Is the melt value what I can actually sell it for?
Not necessarily. The melt value is the theoretical floor of the pure silver content. Dealers typically pay a percentage of the melt value to cover refining and handling, so the actual offer is usually a bit lower. Knowing the melt value helps you judge whether an offer is fair and avoid being underpaid.
What do the hallmarks on silver mean?
Silver items often bear marks such as 925, 800, Sterling, .999, indicating fineness. If unmarked, ask a professional to test with a touchstone or XRF device. Note that stones and non-silver parts are not counted in the pure-silver weight.
Silver melt value is so low — why are some silver items sold far more expensively? What value lies beyond melt?
This is where silver differs from gold. Gold's unit price is high, so for most pieces the metal melt value is the main value; but silver's unit price is low, so the true value of many silver items lies 'not in the metal but in the craft, age and brand'. If you sell by melt value alone you may badly undervalue it. First see the limits of melt: per gram, silver is often a fraction of gold's price, so a 100g 925 item may be worth only a few hundred dollars in metal. If it is mass-produced ordinary jewellery, melt value is roughly its ceiling. But if it has these traits, the value can far exceed melt: (1) craftsmanship — finely handmade or uniquely designed silver, where buyers pay for skill and design; (2) age / antique value — period silver (e.g. Victorian, old reputable silversmiths) can fetch far above metal on the collectors' market for rarity and history; (3) brand value — branded pieces carry a brand premium; (4) completeness and condition — a full set, undamaged, with original box and papers is worth far more than loose, damaged items. So first 'identify the nature': is it ordinary scrap silver, or a collectible piece? For the former, sell by weight to a recycler using this calculator as the floor; for the latter, seek antique dealers, auction houses or collectors who may pay well above melt. Never melt down a valuable antique — you destroy the premium. This tool computes the metal melt floor; craft and collectible value must be assessed separately.
How do I tell real silver, 925 and 'silver-plated', and what to watch when trading?
Identifying fineness is the first step to avoid being cheated — especially confusing 'plated' with 'solid', which differ vastly in value. On fineness: (1) hallmarks are clearest — proper silver usually carries them: .999 or Fine Silver = 99.9%, 925 / Sterling / S925 = 92.5%, 800 = 80%; divide the per-thousand number by 10 for the percentage. (2) If unmarked or doubtful, ask a reputable dealer for a touchstone or XRF test, the latter non-destructively reading fineness. The key distinction is 'silver-plated' (EP / EPNS / Silver Plated): a thin silver layer electroplated on base metal (copper, zinc alloy) with almost no silver content — do not treat it as solid silver or you will grossly overstate the melt. Quick checks: solid silver is heavier, conducts heat fast, and tarnishes grey-black (cleanable); plated items eventually reveal the base metal colour. Trading tips: (1) confirm solid vs plated before selling; (2) solid silver (especially 925) tarnishes over time — normal, not affecting metal value; (3) remove stones and non-silver parts before weighing; (4) small amounts have limited recycling value, so batch and compare quotes; (5) items with collectible value seek collectors instead. This tool is an estimate only, not trading advice.
Content review: Calculatorism Finance Team. Results are for reference only; please refer to the relevant authorities for the official figures.